Page 58 - RLI February 2019
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Dallas-based boutique Forty Five Ten is the “new hot   Gucci has also given its stores a makeover, although interest-
                         iteration of the department store, offering curated luxury   ingly, this has been achieved without expensive re-fits. Instead,
                         products in an artful setting”, says Lucie Greene, world-  it has harnessed the ‘soft power’ of VM, implementing new
                         wide director of innovation at JWT. Kristen Cole, president   schemes and finishes on top of existing architecture to deliver
                         and chief creative officer of Forty Five Ten and sister-store   a fresh and presumably cost-effective retail transformation. The
                         Tenoversix,  says  retail  is  no  longer  just  about  the  func-  recently opened Gucci flagship store situated in New York’s
                         tion of offering clothes. “It’s about providing an immersive,   SoHo district, is highly individualised a bold and edgy state-
                         sensory engagement: cool, friendly, smart staff; good music;   ment that’s about so much more than simply selling products.
                         nice smells; compelling Forty Five Ten merchandising; sig-   According to Karl McKeever, “For a long time now, retailers
                         nificant art; a spot for coffee, drinks, café and, of course,   have relied on neutral, minimalist spaces with limited product
                         a strong presentation of great design,” she explains. The   colours and when they have struggled to re-evaluate their ap-
                         company operates a number of stores across the United   proach to visual merchandising, they often resort to simplifying
                         States, with each location tailored to its specific market. It   the range. The result is that VM becomes almost mechanical and
                         plans to open Forty Five Ten in New York’s Hudson Yards   easy to implement with little expertise and knowledge within
                         in 2019, which will be “very directional, very forward, from   the store teams. This is the opposite of Gucci’s design narrative,
                         Snarkitecture’s design of the space, to the edit of brands   which thrives on being brave and playful in its use of colour
                         and pieces”, says Ms Cole. “We want to offer boutique   and pattern. However, rolling out similar concepts on the high
                         experience and concepts, slightly different in each city, not   street could be risky and you have to question whether some
                         monotony,” she adds.                         VM teams out there would be ready for such a challenge.”
                           Cult beauty brand Glossier launched a week-long pop-  When it first launched back in 2014, Casper upended the
                         up  Studio  in  central  London  during  November,  which   industry with its pioneering mattress-in-a-box online delivery
                         saw thousands of people coming through its doors daily.   concept.  In  2018,  it  joined  a  growing  list  of  online  retailers
                         Taking over an 18th-century home in Marylebone, it cre-  to launch a permanent physical retail store. Situated in the
                         ated a “totally instagrammable shop” selling its full range   heart of downtown Manhattan, the store is intent on making
                         of skincare, make-up and body products. With the aim of   mattress shopping an enjoyable experience. The store will be
                         engaging the local community and creating a buzz, having   used as a testing ground ahead of a planned 200-store rollout
                         recently  started  selling  to  the  UK,  it  inspired  hundreds   across the US. Its cosy layout is in stark contrast to the dreary
                         of user-generated content items across social media and   experience of traditional mattress stores where products are
                         Glossier’s own Instagram account, which saw one of the   lined up in seemingly endless rows. Balancing product educa-
                         most liked images in its history. Despite being an online   tion with a sense of playfulness, Casper also features six semi-
                         player, Glossier sees offline brand activities as a key part   private bedrooms, allowing customers to ‘go upstairs to bed’
                         of engaging its customer base in the form of pop-up retail   to test the mattresses before buying. Each room has a different
                         stores and community dinners.                design and sound effects that activate when you walk in.


                                                                                                         WARTSKI
                                                                                                        London, UK
                                                                                                  Shopfitter: pORTVIEW












































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